Once the engine was in place, the next task was to get the engine started, and make sure nothing seized or dropped off.
Essentially, this meant getting lubricants, cooling and enough electrics in place to start up.
I made up a small console, and bolted it in place. I wired in the coil, starter switch, distributor, and starter motor as the fundamentals.
I also cabled in the alternator, with a charge light, and the oil warning light and temperature gauge.
I’ve dropped in a the circuit diagram I used to pull it all together.

The tough part of the wiring eventuated because I decided to install a new distributor. I had my doubts about the old one, a lot of the internal insulation was in a bad state, and I thought it might be better to start afresh. I bought a new distributor from Gary Gjerde (CLR 4WD), and also a Britpart electronic ignition kit. It looked simple enough, but it wasn’t. No wiring diagram was supplied with the kit, so I fitted it in what seemed a reasonable way, and had no joy at all – not even a hint of a spark.
After wasting a couple of hours, I decided to re-install the contacts. Then I discovered that I couldn’t find my feeler gauges, which to be honest I wouldn’t have used in the lasy 10 years. I set the contact point gap by eye, then tried setting the static timing. Next thing, I shorted out the test lamp on something, and blew the globe – and I didn’t have a spare.
Eventually I put the electronic ignition back in, called for help, and was told it’s simple – the black lead on the ignition goes to coil negative, the red goes to coil positive. Easy really, when you know how.
I had also lost my timing light, so ended up waiting for the shops to open and bought a new one. It’s not hard to see where the money goes when you’re off to the parts shop three times every weekend.
Anyway – if you want to see the exciting bit, jump to the end of this page. The photos of the engine as she sits now are just below.







And now for the exciting bit . . . . watch the video on YouTube.